Leader’s Outlook

COSTA RICA TOP TO BOTTOM
Mike Mulligan

When I started birding in Costa Rica 16 years ago, it didn’t take me long to realize the enormous physical diversity of this beautiful country. A land of coastlines and mountains (and a sixth the size of Minnesota), it encompasses many major habitat zones and niches which set the stage for its enormous breadth of birdlife. After 20-some birding tours I still find exciting and new places to explore. With about 800 bird species, some spectacularly easy to spot (and some darned sneaky), every day we’re delighted with an astonishing array of avian residents and visitors. Friendly Costa Ricans and excellent facilities contribute to an unforgettable tropical birding adventure.

This is a somewhat informal narrative of our recent Costa Rica birding trip. Here’s the story:
I’ve been home just long enough to wish for that lovely warm climate again. After you left for home, I flew to Palmar and hitched a boat ride to Las Caletas Lodge on the Osa Peninsula. There I joined some Calgary bird banders and worked the nets with them for several days. The daytime temp ranged from 32C/90F to 38C/101F. At five o’clock one morning it was 27C/81F. I’m sure the humidity never wavered below 99%. Sticky! We saw many great birds however, up real close. I got home to Calgary the day before Easter, hoping for some Spring weather.

The goal of this trip was to provide you with a tropical experience at various altitudes and climatic systems, as well as to see lots of birds. I think we succeeded. I attempt to write this final report in a way that recaptures some of the feelings, sounds, touches and sights of our time together. I mention interesting birds usually--but not always--the day they’re first spotted, and sometime again if the sighting is noteworthy. With a few exceptions I don’t mention North American birds unless they may be a lifer for one of you. The report is lengthy, but I hope you will enjoy it.

DAILY ITINERARY

March 9 Evening, all planes arrive in San Jose pretty much on schedule. We find our rooms in the lovely Hotel Bougainvillea in Santo Domingo and prepare for tomorrow’s big first day.

March 10 Co-leader Kevin Easley joins us for a leisurely breakfast. Comfortable, sunny birding of the hotel grounds yields Hoffman’s Woodpecker, Great Kiskadee, our first of many Rufous-tailed Hummingbirds, and both White-eared and Prevost’s Ground-Sparrows. A White-tailed Kite sails by. We load our spacious, air-conditioned Toyota Coaster bus and head for the Pacific lowlands with competent driver Rolando at the wheel. In the Orotina village square we scope a staked-out Black-and-white Owl and a Hoffman’s two-toed sloth. Following a quick stop at the Rio Tarcoles bridge we check into Villa Lapas Lodge. Yard birds here include Yellow-throated Euphonia, Green Kingfisher and Golden-hooded Tanager. Later, driving to Tarcoles village, we see five Scarlet Macaws feeding on almond blossoms. Dozens of waterbirds are spotted from our delightful boat ride in the Rio Tarcoles tidal estuary, including Boat-billed Heron, Wood Stork, Plumbeous Kite, Mangrove Black-Hawk and Northern Jacana. We study Least and Western Sandpipers side-by-side, and Orange-fronted Parakeets in the scope by the boat dock. An American Pygmy-Kingfisher poses at three feet. Carole finds a Turquoise-browed Motmot. Temp today is around 32C/90F, reasonably comfortable. Following a “free” beer or two and dinner---nobody goes away hungry at Villa Lapas---we complete the daily checklist and head for our rooms before 9 p.m. It’s a big bird day, including Neotropic Cormorant, Anhinga, Magnificent Frigatebird, a beautifully-marked Bare-throated Tiger-Heron, Yellow-crowned Night-Heron, White Ibis, Roseate Spoonbill, Crested and Yellow-headed Caracaras, Laughing Gulls in various plumages, bad looks at Sandwich Tern and Black Skimmer, White-winged, White-tipped and Inca Doves, Common Ground-Dove, Red-lored and Yellow-naped Parrots, Groove-billed Ani, Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl, Lesser Night-Hawk, Pauraque, Scaly-breasted and Cinnamon Hummingbirds, Ringed, Belted and Amazon Kingfishers (with the first two mentioned it’s a five-kingfisher day), a rose-less Rose-throated Becard, Masked Tityra, Tropical Kingbird, Social and Panama Flycatchers, Blue-and-white and Mangrove Swallows, several raucous Brown Jays, Rufous-naped and Southern House Wrens, Clay-colored Robin, Orange-billed Nightingale-Thrush, Yellow-green Vireo, Prothonotary and Mangrove Warblers, our first Chestnut-sided Warbler, Northern Waterthrush, American Redstart, Montezuma Oropendola, Bronzed Cowbird, Great-tailed Grackle, Orchard Oriole, the resident race of Eastern Meadowlark, Red-legged Honeycreeper, Blue-gray, Palm and Summer Tanagers, Grayish Saltator, Rose-breasted Grosbeak and Rufous-collared Sparrow. Voted Bird of the Day is American Pygmy-Kingfisher.

March 11 After a 5:30 do-it-yourself breakfast we head for the River Trail in Carara National Park. Two morning soaring raptors are Double-toothed Kite and Short-tailed Hawk, and two perched are Laughing Falcon and Collared Forest-Falcon (great looks). We watch a striking Violet Sabrewing, plus Black-headed Trogon and a Rufous-tailed Jacamar perched overhead. A scope look at a White-whiskered Puffbird is a highlight. An unusual Least Bittern is glimpsed at the resaca. Following lunch and rest break we tackle the park’s Figure Eight Trail where we find Great Tinamou, Squirrel Cuckoo, Baird’s Trogon, Blue-crowned Motmot near the old administration building, the big Pale-billed Woodpecker, Black-faced Antthrush and a well-marked Northern Barred-Woodcreeper. The bathing pools give us Black-capped and Blue-crowned Manakins, Green Honeycreeper and a skulking Orange-billed Sparrow. A Streak-chested Antpitta walks the trail toward us in the gathering dusk. More birds today: Short-billed Pigeon (“who-cooks-for-you”), Gray-chested Dove, Brown-hooded and Mealy Parrots, Long-tailed Hermit, Blue-throated Goldentail, Purple-crowned Fairy, Violaceous Trogon, Golden-naped Woodpecker, Streak-headed Woodcreeper, Buff-throated Foliage-gleaner, Plain Xenops, Barred Antshrike, Dot-winged Antwren, Dusky and Chestnut-backed Antbirds, Long-tailed Manakin seen by some, Orange-collared Manakin, Piratic, Dusky-capped, Sulphur-rumped and Yellow-olive Flycatchers, a rare Royal Flycatcher, Common and Slate-headed Tody-Flycatchers, Northern Bentbill, Gray-breasted Martin, Rufous-and-white and Rufous-breasted Wrens, Tropical Gnatcatcher, everyone sees well an incessantly-singing Long-billed Gnatwren, Green Shrike-Vireo overhead (“it’s right next to that green leaf!”), Yellow-throated Vireo, Lesser Greenlet, Cherrie’s and White-shouldered Tanagers, Buff-throated Saltator, Blue-black Grosbeak and Variable Seedeater. Bird of the Day: Orange-collared Manakin.

March 12 Early drive to mangroves and open field near Tarcol Lodge. We see our first bird from the bus, Stripe-headed Sparrow. Kevin is most excited about spotting a rare Yellow-billed Cotinga, but we also note Ruddy Ground-Dove, White-fronted Parrot, Melodious Blackbird near the boat landing, Steely-vented Hummingbird, White-necked Puffbird, Cocoa Woodcreeper, Cinnamon Becard, and have excellent scope looks at a Lineated Woodpecker. During our rest break on the Tarcol Lodge deck we enjoy a refreshing drink and the many waterbirds in view. Along the trail to the beach some see a Rufous-browed Peppershrike. We dip on the Collared Plover. Mid-afternoon we bus up the hill to an overlook, hoping for a King Vulture. We find a large flock of Band-tailed Pigeons, Gray-headed Chachalaca and Gray Hawk. After dinner we return to Tarcoles village where Kevin calls in a well-seen Pacific Screech-Owl. We also tally Band-rumped and White-collared Swifts, Boat-billed, Streaked, Brown-crested and Northern Scrub Flycatchers, Tropical Pewee, Yellow Tyrannulet, Yellow-bellied Elaenia, Mangrove Vireo, Scrub Greenlet, and nest-building Scrub Euphonias. BOD: White-necked Puffbird.

March 13 We eat our only “real” Lapas breakfast and drive up the road again for some morning birding. We see well the King Vulture missed yesterday. Merce finds a Crested Guan. All get a pretty good shot at a fly-by Blue Ground-Dove. Other “up the road” birds are perched Orange-chinned Parakeets, Lesser Swallow-tailed Swift, White-winged Becard, Philadelphia Vireo, an elusive Rufous-capped Warbler, several Western Tanagers and male Painted Buntings. On what Kevin calls the New Trail in Carara Park Bill gets a picture of an oblivious Great Tinamou. A striking Lesser Ground-Cuckoo glares in the sunlight. We find Red-crowned Woodpecker, a screaming pink-billed Rufous Piha, Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher with a Streaked nearby to compare, Worm-eating Warbler, Gray-headed Tanager and numerous Chestnut-backed Antbirds seen and heard along the trail. After stopping for lunch provisions, Rolando heads us toward the Caribbean side. We bypass most of San Jose and drive through Braulio Carrillo National Park. Kevin shows us an abandoned butterfly “farm” where in the flowering verbena we spot Violet-headed Hummingbird, Black-crested Coquette, Snowcap, Red-footed Plumeleteer (even see the feet!) and a female Violet-crowned Woodnymph. We check at the Rio San Jose bridge for a Fasciated Tiger-Heron but instead find Black-cowled Oriole and Black-headed Grosbeak. Twenty minutes later we pull into the yard at El Gavilan Lodge. On the grounds we find Black-cheeked Woodpecker and Dusky-faced Tanager; Merce spots a Short-tailed Nighthawk overhead at dusk. We find it’s a bit more humid on this side. Other birds: Red-lored Parrot, Stripe-throated (Little) Hermit, Black-throated Trogon, Long-tailed Woodcreeper, a few catch a Slaty Antwren, Gray-capped and Great Crested Flycatchers, a second Royal Flycatcher (most unusual), Greenish Elaenia, Ochre-bellied Flycatcher (thank you David), Band-backed Wren, a skulky Riverside Wren, Black-headed Saltator and our only Swainson’s Thrush (note: Calgary banders on the Osa Peninsula banded over 400 Swainson’s, by far the most common neotropical migrant found). BOD: Lesser Ground-Cuckoo.

March 14 Immediately following breakfast we see the Spectacled Owl behind Kevin’s cabin. Birding the entrance road to La Selva Field Station (Organization for Tropical Studies) produces Olive-throated Parakeet and White-crowned Parrot (scope looks at both), Striped Cuckoo, Bright-rumped Attila and the very local Yellow-tailed Oriole. After completing the paperwork at the administration building we meet our guide Carlos and add Paltry Tyrannulet, Bananaquit, and a low-flying Snowy Cotinga in the yard. We find a Fasciated Antshrike pair at the suspension bridge and pick up Gray-rumped Swift, Band-tailed Barbthroat, White-breasted Wood-Wren, Buff-rumped Warbler, Yellow-crowned and Olive-backed Euphonias. The arboretum gives us a male Hook-billed Kite (incomplete look for most), a flock of strange-sounding Purple-throated Fruitcrows, and a Broad-billed Motmot found by Bill. Bullet ants are respectfully examined. We return to the La Selva road in the afternoon and find Black-crowned Tityra, White-ringed Flycatcher, Olive-crowned Yellowthroat, Crimson-collared Tanager, Red-throated Ant-Tanager and both Scarlet-rumped and Yellow-billed Caciques. A Bat Falcon cruises low over us followed by another Short-tailed Nighthawk to end our day. In addition we see Gray-headed Kite, Michael locates a Blue-chested Hummingbird, a Slaty-tailed Trogon is heard-only, Rufous Motmot, Collared Aracari, Keel-billed (“Cool-billed”) Toucan, Smoky-brown Woodpecker, a short look at a Rufous-winged Woodpecker, a long scope look at a gorgeous Chestnut-colored Woodpecker, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, a late afternoon Great Antshrike male, a Rufous Mourner sounding its wolf whistle, Plain-colored and White-lined Tanagers, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis (scope), Black-striped Sparrow and all get on a Black-faced Grosbeak. A most elusive Black-throated Wren gives us satisfying scope looks. BOD: Chestnut-colored Woodpecker.

March 15 Our first new bird is a fly-by Muscovy Duck from the bus enroute to La Selva. At the highway stop White-throated Crakes walk out in the open, and we also note Pale-vented Pigeon, a male Pink-billed (Nicaraguan) Seed-Finch and a nearby Thick-billed Seed-Finch. On the entrance road we find a Pied Puffbird pair nest-building in an old termite nest, and enjoy two brilliant perched male Snowy Cotingas above the admin building. We see well a strongly-marked Black-striped Woodcreeper, locate a much more cooperative Rufous-winged Woodpecker, and find a Western Slaty-Antshrike in the scope. Some glimpse a few feathers of an Ocellated Antbird and most finally see a Mourning Warbler. Carlos tells us that a walking palm can move two to fifteen inches a year (which I find hard to believe). At noon we see Green Ibis near the river at El Gavilan, plus a Blue Ground-Dove pair on the wire and cabin roof from our lunch table. An Olive-backed Euphonia on the platform feeder is a pleasure to watch. In the afternoon we scour the Selva Verde Lodge riverbanks for a Sunbittern without luck, but do catch a Bay Wren on the trail. Most spot a shy Gray-necked Wood-Rail. We add Peregrine Falcon, Crimson-fronted Parakeet, Southern Rough-winged Swallow, Wood Thrush and a much improved look at a Hook-billed Kite. BOD: Snowy Cotinga and White-throated Crake (tie).

March 16 After our 5 am hot breakfast---food here has been fine---we head for La Virgen del Socorro, a wet-forest gorge. A few minutes after leaving the bus a loud crashing sound startles and frightens us. A car up the highway a bit had missed a curve at high speed, broken off a power pole and buried itself in the forest. Several people were injured. It’s a sobering event that gives us pause.

We work our way down the road, hoping the rain will hold off (it does, mostly, but pours all day at La Selva!) and find a lot of birds. Black Guan, Green Violet-ears heard tick-ticking more than seen, Collared Trogon, Emerald Toucanet, an excellent scope look at a pair of Smoky-brown Woodpeckers, Olivaceous and Spotted Woodcreepers, a nesting Red-faced Spinetail and Russet Antshrike. Immaculate Antbird and Nightingale Wren are heard-only. Flycatchers include Yellow-bellied, Tufted, Yellow-margined and Slaty-capped, plus Scale-crested Pygmy-Tyrant. We note Ochraceous Wren, most see a Pale-vented Robin and we’re entertained by the flute-song of a Slaty-backed Nightingale-Thrush. Our warbler sightings include Golden-winged, Blackburnian, Kentucky, Tropical Parula and Slate-throated Redstart. Also Tawny-capped Euphonia and Emerald, Silver-throated, Bay-headed, and Black-and-yellow Tanagers. Many Common Bush-Tanagers. At the bridge we watch one more flycatcher, a Torrent Tyrannulet, plus an American Dipper. Eating our packed lunch on the way up from the bridge we head for the Chinchona “restaurant” hummingbird stop. This marvelous place entertains us for an hour with ten species of hummers including an uncommon Brown Violet-ear, Green Hermit female, our second look at the huge Violet Sabrewing, Green Thorntail, Coppery-headed Emerald, White-bellied Mountain-Gem, Green-crowned Brilliant and Magnificent Hummingbird---plus both Red-headed and Prong-billed Barbets. It’s simply dazzling! We relax with some ice cream at my favorite stop, El Angel Dairy. At Kevin’s “Pied-billed Grebe laguna” we spot Slaty Spinetail, Gray-crowned Yellowthroat, Yellow-faced Grassquit, and a White-naped Brush-Finch is seen by some. On our way back to El Gavilan a highway stop gives us Giant Cowbird and Gray-breasted Martin. We also pick up Broad-winged Hawk, Black Phoebe and our second Green Shrike-Vireo somewhere during the day. BOD: Red-headed Barbet.

March 17 We board our Coaster after an early breakfast and head for Braulio Carrillo National Park. In the unrelenting rain most of us tackle the steep and slippery Sendero Las Palmas. We pick up Striped Foliage-gleaner, Cerulean Warbler and Blue-and-gold Tanager. Our only Cinnamon Woodpecker is heard in the Braulio parking lot. On the way to Rancho Naturalista we find a Fasciated Tiger-Heron foraging along his stretch of riverbed, and watch Swainson’s and Broad-winged Hawks kettling overhead. Arriving about 1:30 we enjoy the excellent balcony-birding (those Snowcaps!), and later check out the forest hummingbird feeders and the bird bathing pools. It’s a fun and relaxing afternoon. At dinner Kevin introduces his brother Steve, the resident Rancho guide. We add migrating Swallow-tailed Kites, White-necked Jacobins up close, Green-breasted Mango, an unusual Garden Emerald, Checker-throated Antwren, a female White-ruffed Manakin bathing, Olive Tanager, Merce and Michael find a Tawny-throated Leaftosser at the pools, we strain for a Whistling Wren’s haunting notes, everyone gets a great view of a Black-headed Nightingale-Thrush, Michael spots a White-throated Shrike-Tanager, and those who missed the Yellow-faced Grassquit yesterday find it easily from the deck. Rancho is a neat place. BOD: Fasciated Tiger-Heron.

March 18 Balcony birding and fresh coffee at 5:30 (or so) is following by an abundant family-style breakfast served by Lisa and her crew. We bird the trails in a steady rain, and around 2:30 drive down through the village of Platanillo to search for a Sunbittern. After a couple fruitless hours of walking along a stream we board the bus and head for Rancho. Suddenly Kevin hollers “Sunbittern!” Actually it’s two of them, and we revel in our leisurely scope views. We note several Vaux’s Swifts from the bus. Back at Rancho two shy Little Tinamous are seen from the balcony. A Blue-winged Warbler is spotted, plus Red-eyed Vireo and Chestnut-headed Oropendola. BOD: Sunbittern.

March 19 The morning deck watch provides all with super looks at a male Black-crested Coquette, better than last week’s view in the verbena patch. The Rancho trails are fairly dry in the morning, and Bill finds a Chestnut-capped Brushfinch. A Golden-olive Woodpecker peers from its cavity. Jan locates the day’s only Great-tailed Grackle. Lunch is followed by a suitable rest. While Jan and Bill do deck patrol the others walk the trails in intermittent light rain. We find a tiny Ruddy-tailed Flycatcher, Plain-brown Woodcreeper, a lovely Speckled Tanager, and hear a Tawny-chested Flycatcher. David and Phil see a Thrushlike Schiffornis and Carole nails an Eye-ringed Flatbill. A reclusive Purplish-backed Quail-Dove poses long enough for all to see fairly well, and nearby we hear a Plain Antvireo. On the way back down a close Thicket Antpitta teases us, but no cigar in spite of Kevin’s efforts. Others: we find Golden-crowned Warbler and White-throated Spadebill, a few catch a White-crowned Manakin, and good views of Slaty Antwren and Tawny-crowned Greenlet, both poorly seen earlier. BOD: Purplish-backed Quail-Dove.

March 20 Our early 4:30 breakfast includes yummy (for some) hot oatmeal. After loading the bus we hear possibly three Mottled Owls near the upper cabinas. Rolando carefully drives us down the steep road, putting up several Parauques, and we continue on to the Rio Birris reservoir for a Least Grebe and little else. On the road into Tapanti National Park a stop for a Chestnut-headed Oropendola is memorable because we’re attacked by some upset wasps. We do see several flying Sulphur-winged Parakeets and a few glimpse a Buffy-crowned Wood-Partridge through the bus windshield. In the park we spot Golden-bellied Flycatcher, Dark Pewee, Gray-breasted Wood-Wren, Brown-capped Vireo, Spangle-cheeked Tanager and a lovely Golden-browed Chlorophonia. On the River Trail we manage a quick look at a perched Tiny Hawk, Phil finds a Lineated Foliage-gleaner, and we search unsuccessfully for a Scaled Antpitta. We attempt to sort Chestnut-collared Swifts from the White-collareds and Vaux’s, and everyone is satisfied with our Black-faced Solitaire view. Leaving the park we stop at Lankester ponds (Common Moorhen) and make our way toward the highlands. After exiting the Pan American Highway onto the road down to Savegre Lodge (Chacon’s) we find some new birds: Long-tailed Silky-Flycatcher and Flame-throated Warbler in the same tree, Mountain Elaenia, Sooty and Mountain Robins, Black-throated Green Warbler and Sooty-capped Bush-Tanager. Also today: Elegant Euphonia, a heard Plain Wren, some get on a female White-winged Tanager, especially fine looks at White-tailed Kites, and we compare Slaty-backed and Black-billed Nightingale-Thrushes. We hear the shy Silvery-fronted Tapaculo the first of several times. We enjoy the cool 7,200-foot air of Chacon’s. BOD: Elegant Euphonia.

March 21 Feeders on the lodge deck put us nose-to-nose with Green Violet-ear, White-throated Mountain-gem, plus Magnificent, Volcano and Scintillant Hummingbirds. Slaty Flowerpiercers work blossoms in the yard. We’re ferried up the farm road in a SUV with Kevin clinging to the back. Sendero Quebrada yields many new species: Ruddy Pigeon, Spot-crowned Woodcreeper, Spotted Barbtail, repeated views of Buffy Tuftedcheek, Yellowish and Black-capped Flycatchers, Yellow-winged Vireo, Black-cheeked Warbler, Yellow-thighed Finch, a brilliant male Flame-colored Tanager, and Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush almost at our feet. Kevin patiently calls out a Zeledonia, which amazingly we all see. The afternoon walk on Waterfall Trail brings us Ruddy Treerunner and Large-footed Finch, plus the biggest bird of the day: a Bicolored Hawk posing atop a tree. Kevin races to find me but I miss a very rare bird. We enjoy spectacular views of both male and female Resplendent Quetzals during the day, as well as Acorn Woodpecker, the small brown Hairy Woodpecker, a badly-named Black thighed Grosbeak, Yellow-bellied Siskin, our second Rufous-browed Peppershrike, and abundant, confiding Collared Redstarts. Kevin conducts a show and tell with his botfly larva. BOD: Resplendent Quetzal (also picked as top trip bird).

March 22 None of those five o’clock starts here at Chacon’s. After our leisurely 7 am breakfast we again ride up the road, dropping Jan and Bill at the quetzal spot. We hike Sendero Los Robles this time. All see well a pair of Spotted Wood-Quail, and Kevin keeps us quiet just long enough for a truly stunning Buff-fronted Quail-Dove to walk out on the trail. We finally catch up with a troupe of high-foraging Silvery-throated Jays. An incessantly-calling Highland Tinamou entices us to scramble down a steep and difficult embankment, but we fail to spot the close bird. After lunch and meditation time we walk the Campground Trail and enjoy an exceptional five Ruddy Treerunners at one time at eye level. A much-discussed Ochraceous Pewee is scoped. Around 5:30 we’re up the road once more searching for a Dusky Nightjar. This means mostly standing around and listening while Kevin plays the tape. A bonus Barn Owl flies over. Finally we hear a faint response, the nightjar flies in, and Kevin nails it in his light. It’s a pleasant walk back down under the stars. At supper I introduce my friend Jay VanderGaast, former Rancho guide. Today we get another look at quetzals, Bill finds a Yellow-thighed Finch, and Jan spots the Bicolored Hawk again(!). For me today was one of the best days of our trip, and possibly the best birding I’ve ever had at Savegre Lodge. BOD: Buff-fronted Quail-Dove.

March 23 We pack the bus one last time and bird Savegre Road on our way up to the highway. Two well-seen “bus birds” are Emerald Toucanet (close) and Volcano Junco. We also pick up an overhead Barred Becard. We turn south on the highway to Panama and drive to Vista del Valle Restaurante where we spot a female White-tailed Emerald and our final Green-crowned Brilliant. Returning north we eventually locate a sneaky Timberline Wren on the treeless Tower Road at 11,000 feet. It’s time for our packed lunch along Providencia Road where we’re treated to an eye-level Fiery-throated Hummingbird. Somewhere we enjoy our best look at a Swallow-tailed Kite, low-soaring and gorgeous. The next stop is the Don Carlos gift shop near downtown San Jose, where several note Crimson-fronted Parakeets. Then it’s on to Hotel Bougainvillea. We put on our best (if rumpled) clothes and enjoy a final well-served dinner. Nice words are spoken. Later we’re prevented by locked doors from searching for the Tropical Screech-Owl on the grounds, but Phil hears its hoots as he falls asleep (he says!). BOD: Barred Becard.

March 24 Some leave early, some head for Monteverde, others board mid-morning airport shuttle. I prepare to travel to the Osa Peninsula. I think we’re all ready to go home. Happy, but ready.